Delhi

India's capital and one of the world's oldest cities, Delhi is undeniably rich for historical sights. Although many overlook it on the way to the other delights of North India, and while the city can be overwhelming at first, I recommend travellers to spend at least a few days in this massive metropolis.

CITY MAPPING
Delhi is a sprawling city but the major sights of interest are located not too far from each other, in the grand scheme of things. Most places of interest are in New Delhi, Old Delhi and South Delhi.

WHEN TO VISIT
Weather-wise, Delhi is a city of extremes by Indian standards. Winters can see mild, sunny afternoons with highs from 15 to 20 C, but winter mornings can be terribly foggy, resulting in transport disruptions and can dampen sightseeing excitement too (that's supposed to be the India Gate but I can't see a damn thing!). Summers from Apr to Jun are hot, with temps going to and beyond 40 C in the day. Monsoons from Jul to Sep are rainy and hot.

SIGHTS
New Delhi
New Delhi is largely a green area with well maintained roads, roundabouts and important government buildings, as well as embassies of foreign countries.

In the heart of Delhi, Rajiv Chowk, formerly and still popularly known as Connaught Place is one of the capital's most popular eating and shopping destination. Consisting of three concentric circles, the area is divided into many blocks. Come here to catch a meal, look at the colonial architecture or just to people-watch.

Not far from Connaught Place, hidden in the leafy lanes of Central Delhi, is an old baoli (stepwell) called Agrasen ki Baoli, also known as Ugrasen ki Baoli, dating from the 14th century. There is no admission fee to visit.

Agrasen ki Baoli

From Connaught Place, walk down Sansad Marg to reach Jantar Mantar. Built in 1724, the Jantar Mantar complex consists of many architectural astronomy instruments.

An instrument at Jantar Mantar

The complex is typically open from sunrise to sunset. Entry fee is 5 Rs for Indians and 100 Rs for foreigners.

One major road to the west, on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, is the Sacred Heart Cathedral, one of the city's most popular. It was beautifully set up for Christmas.

Sacred Heart Cathedral

One of the main roads leading from Connaught Place to the area around Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential Palace) area is called Janpath. Walk south on Janpath, until you reach the Tibetan Market, a great place to shop for Tibetan handicrafts and textiles. 

Keep walking south, and on the junction of Janpath with Rajpath, the grand India Gate looms large on the left. A war memorial to the members of the Indian army who perished in World War 1 and and the Third Anglo-Afghan War, the India Gate is now a popular spot for locals in the evenings. 

India Gate

Keep going south on Janpath and you will come across the National Museum. While the presentation is hardly to write home about, the museum's collection includes priceless exhibits from the Indus Valley Civilisation (as old as 3000 BC), and then on chronologically, Buddhist and Jain works from the Mauryan, Shunga and Satavahana Periods. The museum is also home to the largest collection of Indian miniature paintings, as well as coin collections. 

The museum is open 10 am to 5 pm, and closed Mondays and holidays. Free 90 minute tours conducted by student volunteers are held so ask about these. Alternatively, you can check out the highlights by stopping at each exhibit with a sign saying 'The Museum in 90 Minutes'. While the student who led our tour was well informed, these tours try to cover a wide range of the museum and can be mentally taxing, as there's not much time to digest all the information, or to take a look at other exhibits alongside the ones covered in the tour. 

A section of a tusk depicting Buddha's life scenes at display
at the National Museum. Carved early 20th century

Slightly east of India Gate is Old Fort, better known as Purana Qila. The oldest known structure of any sort in Delhi, this fort is one brimming with legends- it is believed that this was the site of the Pandavas' capital, Indraprastha. What is known is that this fort was rebuilt by Sher Shah Suri, and it may have been incomplete even by his death in 1545, and rebuilt later by his son. Archaeological excavations have confirmed that the site has been continually inhabited from around 1000 BC. 

The fort is located close to the Delhi Zoo, entry is Rs 5 for Indians and Rs 100 for foreigners, and it is open from 9 am to 5 pm. Enter through the Bara Darwaza (Big Gate) and spend time in one of Delhi's less touristy historic attractions. 

Bara Darwaza, as viewed from inside the fort

One of the sights inside the fort is the Qila e Kunha Masjid, built in 1541.

The masjid

The mosque is remarkably well maintained. Next to it is a stepwell, be careful not to fall in it!

Other sights inside the fort include a hammam (bath house) which provided for hot and cold water, as well as steam rooms during the Mughal times. 

Across the Humayun Darwaza are the ruined parts of the fort. You can have a look at the ruins in the outside, but going inside is not permitted.

Some 4 km north of Old Fort is another of Delhi's historic forts, known as Feroz Shah Kotla. Ask Delhi residents about this fort, and they will point you to the more famous cricket stadium next door, which goes by the same name. And while the cricket stadium has some interesting historic feats to it, such as Indian bowler Anil Kumble's 10 wickets in an innings against Pakistan, even this cricket fan admits that the fort is pretty amazing too.

Delhi has over the ages hosted 7 cities, and Feroz Shah Kotla was built to house the fifth city of Delhi, known as Ferozabad. Built in the mid 14th century by Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq, who was also a noted builder, who commissioned a number of mosques, forts etc across the Sultanate, the fort, now in ruins, is said to be haunted. Every Thursday a ceremony is held to please the djinns who are said to inhabit the place.

Looking around the fort

Today the ruins are expansive, with well-maintained gardens. You can see the mosque, as well as the ruins of the soldiers' quarters, stepwell and the jail. Look interested, and a guard will offer you a short tour around the place.

Feroz Shah Tughlaq was a cultured man and appreciated history. This is shown by the Ashokan Pillar, dating from the 3rd century BC which he meticulously brought from its original location in Ambala. This pillar rests on top of what was a pyramidal structure.

The Ashokan Pillar

The expansive jails... at least Feroz Shah Tughlaq reduced the
brutal punishments such  as flaying often meted out by this
predecessor, Muhammad bin Tughlaq.  

South of India Gate is Khan Market, another very popular shopping and dining destination in the city, with among the highest rents.

A bit further south are the Lodhi Gardens, which contain many tombs, most of them of the Lodhi dynasty. The garden, free to entry, is a popular walking area for locals and its 90 acres make it good for sightseeing too.

Interior of a tomb in Lodhi Garden

Just down the road from Lodhi Gardens' south western corner lies the complex of Safdarjung's Tomb, one of Delhi's lesser touristy but equally worth visiting sights. Built in 1754, this houses the tomb of Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan (popularly known as Safdarjung), the ruler of Awadh. The layout of the compound is very similar to that of the more famous nearby Humayun's Tomb.

Safdarjung's Tomb

If you go east on Lodhi Road, you will come across the compound of Humayun's Tomb. A large complex, it has other tombs besides a mosque. One of Delhi's most popular sights, expect crowds and avoiding visiting on weekends and holidays, if you want to avoid crowds.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the perfect symmetry of the tomb and the sheer elegance makes it one of the most beautiful structure in Delhi. The surrounding lawns, which if you turn away from the main path can feel like a forest, are pleasant to stroll through.

The other monuments are accessible from gateways on the sides; continue straight to reach the main building of Humayun's Tomb.

Humayun's Tomb

Climb to the upper level to gain access to the tomb.

Some of the other sights in the compound include Isa Khan's Tomb and a mosque facing it.

Isa Khan's Tomb

Old Delhi

Located north of New Delhi, Old Delhi was founded by Mughal emperor Shahjahan (and known as Shahjahanbad) in 1639. The city was walled, with 14 gates. One of the pleasures is just roaming around and witnessing the chaos of the area, and you can do this by walking or from the top of a rickshaw, which are ubiquitous throughout Old Delhi.

One of Delhi's most famous attractions is the Red Fort (Lal Qila). Built by Shahjahan, the Red Fort was the home of the Mughal emperor for nearly 200 years. Majestic from the outside, I frankly found it a bit disappointing, with closed-off areas, and relatively poor maintenance. If you're visiting Agra too, the Agra Fort is much more extensive and in better shape.

Red Fort

Inside are some museums, such as Museum on India's Struggle for Freedom. Historical sights inside the fort include the Diwan-i-Aam, where the emperor gave public audiences. One of the more elaborate halls is the Khas Mahal, the emperor's private palace.

Detail in the Khas Mahal

Another of Old Delhi's sights is the Jama Masjid, one of India's most well known mosques, built in 1656.

Stairs leading to Jama Masjid

You have to remove your footwear to enter. Carrying cameras inside will entail a fee of Rs 300- most people just use their cellphones to take photos of the beautiful compound. 

One of Delhi's prime market areas, particularly for street food is Chandni Chowk, the centre of Old Delhi. A small lane branching off from the main road here, called Gali Paranthewali, is renowned for eateries serving paranthe.
Mehrauli 
Mehrauli is a district in south west Delhi, also known for its historical sights.

The most famous of them are clustered in the Qutub Archaeological Complex. Getting in can be a hassle- you buy your ticket from across the road, and then come back to join the entry queue- expect loads of crowds on weekends/holidays.

Qutub Minar

The complex is home to Qutub Minar, a minaret built in the end of the 12th century.

Detail on the Qutub Minar

Among other structures in the complex include gateways, mosques and tombs (yes, more tombs!).

If you want to escape to another historically-rich area nearby with very few crowds, visit the Mehrauli Archaeological Park. Read a page on it by me here.

ACCOMMODATION
We have stayed in several hotels in Delhi including:

- Le Meridien Delhi. Located conveniently in New Delhi, walking distance to Jantar Mantar, India Gate and National Museum.

- Hilton Delhi. Not too close to any major attractions but close to the metro.

FOOD
Undoubtedly North Indian cuisine is the best to try here. Go to Chandni Chowk for street food and paranthe. Connaught Place, Khan Market and Delhi's malls have options for sit-down, including fine dining restaurants.

One of Delhi's street food specialties is shakargandhi, which is nicely spiced up sweet potato. You can find this just about everywhere, such as in Janpath market.

SAFETY
Delhi has received a lot of bad press recently, however as a tourist, Delhi does not pose any extra risk provided you follow typical big-city precautions. The metro can get very crowded in rush hours, and as in any crowded place, watch your pockets and bag. Scams and touts can be the biggest annoyance.

TRANSPORT
Within Delhi, the metro is of some use to tourists. However, within a smaller area, autos (3 wheelers) or rickshaws are more useful. Taxis cannot be hailed.

Hyderabad

Hyderabad is truly one of India's great cities for history, reflected in its beautiful palaces and museums. Located in the southern Indian state of Telangana, Hyderabad is on the banks of the Musi river.

While many South Indian destinations like Hampi, Mysore and Goa are very popular, Hyderabad is relatively overlooked. I recommend this city to all history and architecture buffs, as well as those looking for Islamic influence in South India.

CITY MAPPING
Many sights are located in the Old City, south of the Musi river. Go around 7 km north and you will reach the artificial Hussain Sagar Lake, in the centre of which stands a 17 meter tall Buddha statue. Around 5 km west of the lake is the area of Banjara Hills, a relatively upscale central neighbourhood comprising many hotels, malls and restaurants.

Hyderabad's Rajiv Gandhi International Airport around 30 km south of Banjara Hills.

SIGHTS
Home to several dynasties across the centuries, and being the richest princely state prior to India's independence, Hyderabad is a treasure-trove of attractions.

Old City
A bustling warren of tiny streets packed to the hilt, with shops selling everything from pearls to footwear, the Old City exudes images of chaos and exoticism at the same time. The area is home to Hyderabad's most famous remainders of its past grandeur. The following is a non-exhaustive list of them, beginning from the north to the south.

Visit the H.E.H The Nizam's Museum to see many items owned by the Nizams (rulers, of the Asaf Jah dynasty, which ruled from 1724 until independence). Like many other museums in India, many items are of significant importance, and are very interesting, but the infrastructure isn't the top- when we went, the power was out and torches were being used! Nonetheless, to appreciate and get a sense of the history, make a visit here. All the items are in gold and/or silver.

Many of the items on display were gifts from dignitaries from various parts of the world. One of the most famous item is the Nizam's huge wardrobe- the Nizam never wore a piece of clothing more than once.

The Nizam's wardrobe

The museum is open every day except for Friday. Timings from 10 am to 5 pm.

Fees: adult/child Rs 80/Rs 15; still camera/video camera Rs 150/Rs 500

Best time to visit: as early as possible

One of the principal monuments of the Old City is the Charminar (which means "four minarets"), a mosque built in 1591. You can climb to the top, expect lots of crowds and queues, particularly on holidays. Closed Fridays. 

The Charminar

Very near, south-west of the Charminar, is the Mecca Masjid, one of the oldest mosques in the city, and among the largest in India. It is named so, as the central arch was made by soil brought from Mecca, Saudi Arabia. The mosque is home to the tombs of the Nizams and of some of their family members. 

Mecca Masjid

Women must cover themselves with a shawl while visiting. 

A little bit to the south is the opulent Chowmahallah Palace, the official residence of the Nizams during their reign. 

The first interior you will see is that of the Khilwat Mubarak, the heart of the palace, and it is very beautiful. 

Khilwat Mubarak

Ceiling of the Khilwat Mubarak

Upstairs are various halls, such as the Hall of the Heritage Crafts (home to beautiful portraits, for example). In the other halls,have a look at the furniture and furnishings too, in particular the ornate screen.

Outside are the other palaces which make up the compound. You can also see some vintage cars, from jeeps to convertibles. 

Also located outside is the famous Khilwat Clock tower, in operation for well over a hundred years. 

Khilwat Clock

The palace is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and is closed on Fridays. 

Entrance fees: adult/child/foreigner Rs 40/10/150. Still camera/mobile phone for photos/video
camera: Rs 50/50/100

About 4 km south is the Nizams' most opulent palaces of them all- the Falaknuma Palace, now a hotel operated by the Taj group. If you're not staying, you cannot just enter the hotel- you need a reservation at one of the hotel's restaurants. Once in, you can roam around the hotel or take a half-hour palace tour. Among the highlights include a snooker table built specially for the Nizam, the world's longest dining table, as well as the sheer opulence of the palace.

Unfortunately, photography isn't permitted in the interior.

A chandelier at the Falaknuma Palace

Koti

Koti is a neighbourhood located just north of the Musi river, about 3 km from the Charminar. Koti Main Rd is just as packed as the Old City, with the absence of the towering minarets. 

For a change, enter the Koti Women's College (part of the Osmania University) from Koti Main Road to check out the British Residency, a grand building virtually ignored by the masses of tourists. 

The Nizam, keen on attaining independence, had to accept a British resident who acted as an advisor. The grand building signifies the strength of the British empire. 

Visit this brilliant blog for more details on the Residency, including its historical context.

Access to the Residency may be difficult, particularly on working days. I visited on a holiday without problems, and was surprised to find a movie shooting taking place. Therefore, going inside the building was not possible.

The British Residency

Hussain Sagar Lake and around

The Hussain Sagar Lake was built during the reign of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, in the year 1562. The road around the lake is known as Necklace Rd, because when lit at night, the road looks like a necklace. 

Access to the Buddha statue in the middle of the lake is via Lumbini Park (entry Rs 10). Find your way to the jetty, where you need to buy tickets for the boat ride. You can take speedboats around the island, but the only boat which will get you to the island is the standard mechanised boat (adult/child Rs 55/35), from 9 am to 9 pm.

17 m tall, the statue is the tallest monolith of Buddha, and was built in 1992, by the state chief minister, who was inspired by the Statue of Liberty.

Close by is the Birla Temple (Birla Mandir- mandir being the Hindi word for temple), constructed with 2000 tons of pure white marble. Located on a 85 m high hillock, there are good views of the area, including of Hussain Sagar Lake. Cellphones and cameras are not allowed. 

The Birla Temple with its various shrines

Golconda Fort and around
Located 8 km west of the Old City, Golconda Fort was the capital of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. The outer wall measures around 7 km- there's a lot to see inside.

The fort

You can hire a guide at the entrance of the fort. They will show you, for example, the cool acoustics of the fort, feats of engineering, for example the structures are so placed that any sound from a particular point is echoed by the opposite structure and can be heard as far away as the hilltop. 

You can walk to the hilltop, passing by great viewpoints which provide a nice overview of the fort and the city too. Unfortunately, the weather is not always conductive for this, so try to come as soon as the fort opens (9 am) and pray for some cloud cover! 

One of the major structures you will pass by on the way to the top includes the Amber Khana (Royal Granary). Here, an inscription in Persian mentions that the granary was built by Khairad Khan in the year 1642, during the Qutb Shah dynasty.

The inscription

People walk up in the heat, against the backdrop of Hyderabad city

You will then come across a mosque called Ibrahim Mosque, followed by a temple. And then you'll reach the final viewpoint- on one direction will be the fort, on another the city. The boundary walls can be clearly seen.

Overview of the fort

Every evening there's a sound and light show at around 7 pm, where the history of the fort is told. An executive class ticket costs Rs 130, in addition to the price to enter the fort. For Indians, the entry fee is Rs 5 and for foreigners it is Rs 100. A ticket for a video camera is Rs 25. Open from 9 am to 5.30 pm.

Not far away are the Qutb Shahi tombs. These are the seven tombs of the rulers of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. Set in expansive green parkland, these are ideal spots to admire the architecture and escape the crowds (these tombs don't seem to be very touristy). 

Qutb Shahi Tombs

Unfortunately, maintenance is not top- expect overgrown grass and fading architecture. Particularly in Golconda Fort, people have scribbled their names on the buildings- so the fault is a two-way street.

Great photography spots
- Roads leading to Charminar (get the shots of Charminar along with the chaos of the streets)
- From the compound of Mecca Masjid (get the Charminar with the pigeons)
- Khilwat Mubarak, the main hall of the Chowmahallah Palace (capture the intricate designs)

Great viewpoints
- The compound of Birla Temple, with views of Hussain Sagar Lake
- Going to the highest points of Golconda Fort

ACCOMMODATION
We stayed in the Taj Deccan, located in Banjara Hills. Good quality, as you would expect from a business hotel of this standard. Walking distance to a few places in Banjara Hills.

FOOD
Like many other Indian cities, Hyderabad is particularly renowned for some food items.

Nimrah Cafe, very close to Charminar and Mecca Masjid, is very famous for Irani tea. They also sell biscuits- another of Hyderabad's specialty.

Kebabs and Kurries, located in the ITC Kakatiya Hotel (in Begumpet, close to the western shore of Hussain Sagar Lake). Serves brilliant biriyani and kebabs.

Check out branches of Karachi Bakery and Bikanerwala, such as their branches in Banjara Hills (they are both next to each other). They serve lots of Indian sweets, snacks etc (and good macarons too).

SPEAK
The official and most widely spoken language in Hyderabad is Telugu. However, many people you will come across (such as in restaurants) will speak at least basic English. Do not expect autorickshaw (3-wheelers) drivers to understand English. Guides in tourist attractions may speak good English.

As Urdu is a relatively popular language here, and since Urdu and Hindi are very similar at a conversational level, Hindi speakers will not have a problem being understood in Hyderabad (which is often the case in smaller cities/towns in South India).

TRANSPORT
Walking, while a great way to get a feel of the city, particularly in the Old City, requires caution in Hyderabad. First, of course, is the weather. Summer sees temperatures beyond 40 degrees Celsius, and above 30 is the norm even up to October (I went in October and it went up to 36 C). Secondly, those pedestrian lights you see serve just for decoration purposes- many (such as in Banjara Hills) never turn green! Cross with caution, and like anywhere in India, do not expect any vehicle to give way.

Hyderabad lacks efficient public transport, and autorickshaws (who may not hesitate to rip off a non-local) are the often the best choice within the city. Taxis cannot be hailed off the streets. Nationwide brands of radio cabs include Meru, EasyCabs and Ola Cabs.

To hire a car + driver for a whole day, try Savaari.

Check in advance if the driver speaks English.

Hyderabad is served by the Rajiv Gandhi International Airport.

Last visit- Oct 2014
No of visits- 1

Gangtok

Gangtok is the capital of the tiny Indian state of Sikkim, in north-east India. And just how far the city physically is from other Indian cities, so is the city very different from other Indian cities.

Introduction
A city of a mere 100,000 people or so, Gangtok is a very popular tourist destination in India due to its proximity to other highlights of Sikkim as well as being, in comparison with the rest of India, a very orderly and clean city. I didn't see a single shanty anywhere! Road rules are obeyed, drivers are very courteous and the city is very clean. Sounds good?

Sights
In the heart of town is Mahatma Gandhi Marg, a wholly pedestrianised road full of shops, small restaurants, banks, ATMs and other services. It is a pleasure to walk around at evening, when the road gets busy. There is a taxi depot very close by, where you can hail taxis to go back.

A section of Mahatma Gandhi Marg

Gangtok is home to the Gangtok Ropeway, a cable car that has 3 stops in the city, offering great views. They are not packed to full capacity, but the attendant will restrict you to one point to stand at while the car is in motion.

Duddul Chhoedten Stupa- A beautiful stupa complex which was once said to be haunted by evil spirits. It was constructed in 1946. Definitely visit if you like stupas and the like.

The stupa

AROUND GANGTOK
Most of the big-name attractions people come for are not in the city itself, but a day trip.

Rumtek Monastery
Around an hour's drive from Gangtok is the Rumtek Monastery, the largest in Sikkim. You will need at least 45 min to see the place properly. The whole complex is very beautiful however photos are not allowed in several areas which can be a bit disappointing.

No special pass or permit is required to visit, but carry some ID.
Indians should carry their voter card, driving license or passport
(pan card is not accepted). Foreigners should carry their passports.





Nathula Pass
Nathula Pass is the India-China border around 2.5 to 3 hrs from Gangtok. The scenery around, especially at Lake Tsomgo (which is frozen in winter) is very beautiful and makes the long journey worthwhile.

You need to apply for a permit to visit Nathula. For Indians at least, the permit takes at least 1 working day and requires 2 passport photos and an identification (such as a passport, voter card or driving license; PAN card is not acceptable).

The area is home to army barracks and is under great security so stopping everywhere for photos is not possible. Definitely stop at Lake Tsomgo. There are a few cafes and shops on the way, where you can use a restroom.

Lake Tsomgo

Accommodation
We stayed at the Club Mahindra's property, which is really outside Gangtok proper and you will need to take a taxi to visit town (20-25 min). The property is designed in a very Buddhist style, and is therefore beautiful.

Transport
The nearest airport is at Bagdogra, in West Bengal, around 4 to 4.5 hrs by road.

Last visit- Jan 2014
No of visits- 1

Kolkata

Kolkata is the biggest city in Eastern India, with a population of around 5 million. It is located on the banks of the river Hooghly.

INTRODUCTION
Kolkata is very famous for its Indian sweets. A particularly famous landmark is the Howrah bridge.

CITY MAPPING
Most tourist attractions are clustered around the Maidan and Esplanade area in central Kolkata. North of these areas is the Hooghly river, with the town of Howrah on the other bank. South of the centre are the posher districts, including Ballygunge, with the famous Birla Mandir. The airport (CCU) is 15 km north east from the city.

SIGHTS
Most attractions are in the city centre, consisting of Esplanade and Maidan districts. Through the centre runs Park St, one of the major thoroughfares of the centre, with many shops and restaurants. Among them is the popular Flurys, which is by large a bakery. It can be immensely crowded, and you may have to wait outside.

Park St on Christmas Eve

Park St

The western end of the street is at the large park called Maidan.

Nearby is the Victoria Memorial, a beautiful piece of colonial architecture. It was built between 1906 and 1921. Expect loads of crowds on holidays and weekends.

Victoria Memorial with the massive crowds on Christmas Day

Also in the area is the St Paul's Cathedral, built in 1847. Photography is not allowed in the interior.

St Paul's Cathedral

Other attractions in the area are the Indian Museum and Eden Gardens. 

A lot of colonial architecture is around Dalhousie Sq (BBD Bagh).

Dalhousie Sq

Some of the interesting buildings include those of the General Post Office and the High Court.

High Court

On the northern bank of the Hooghly is the bustling town of Howrah, with the main railway station of Kolkata.

Old Howrah Bridge

Howrah Railway Station

In south Kolkata, the primary attraction is the Birla Temple. Photography is not permitted inside.

Birla Temple in Ballygunge

ACCOMMODATION

1) Park Plaza Kolkata Ballygunge---located in south Kolkata's Ballygunge area, Park Plaza offers pleasant rooms and has a good restaurant. While Birla Temple is walkable, you will need a taxi to travel to the centre. 

2) Swissotel Kolkata---handy to the airport (a 10 min drive). Rooms are plush and there is a mall next door- convenient for food.

FOOD

Kolkata is rightly famous for its Indian sweets. 

Balaram has a small outlet on Park St and a bigger one in Bhawanipur. Great sweets- many distinct ones as well.

Kwality, on Park St, serves good Indian cuisine but portions are very small.

Flurys is a famous bakery on Park St with smaller branches elsewhere.

TRANSPORT

Kolkata is served by the Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Airport (CCU), 15 km from the centre. There is a pre-paid taxi service- follow the signs upon arrival. 

Taxis can be hailed on the streets. If the meter starts from 10, the actual fare will be 2.4 times the meter reading plus Rs 1. If the meter starts from 25, the meter reading is the fare. A taxi from Ballygunge to Park St would cost about Rs 80. 

However, taxis can be very difficult to find around Park St at evenings. Some may be unwilling to go.

Kolkata also boasts a metro and India's only tram service. 

A tram runs past Birla Temple

Last visit: Dec 2013

No of visits: 1

Mumbai

Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is the "land of opportunities" for Indians. It is the city home to the Indian film industry (Bollywood). Mumbai is India's financial capital- with the primary stock exchange BSE (Bombay Stock Exchange). All these come together and give a massive city with nearly 20 million inhabitants- and with lots to see.

City mapping
Mumbai is a sprawling city but the traditional heart of Mumbai- South Mumbai- is relatively small and contains districts such as Colaba, Fort, Malabar Hill as well as the famous Marine Dr you would have seen in pictures. Slightly north is Central Mumbai with districts such as Byculla. Further north are the suburbs- of Bandra, Andheri and the city further stretches north to Goregaon, Malad and Gorai. Check out this map.

An (E) or a (W) on an address indicated the side of the railway line the shop/house etc lies. For example, Bandra (W) means the business is in Bandra, west of the railway line.

How to get there
Mumbai has a major airport, located around Santa Cruz. It can take upto an hour to reach South Mumbai. There are pre-paid cabs available as soon as you exit the terminal. The airport has flights from throughout the world and India.

Old Names or New Names
Many people still say Bombay and most taxi drivers will understand you when you want to go to VT (Victoria Terminus is the old name for Chhatrapati Sivaji Terminus, CST). However, I've never heard Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Road; everyone uses Marine Dr.

Sights
SOUTH MUMBAI
South Mumbai is the traditional business district of the city.

COLABA

The Gateway of India (right) next to the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Colaba forms the southernmost part of Mumbai. Around the east coast is the iconic Gateway of India next to the famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, which was one of the victims in the 2008 terrorist attack (called 26/11). Gatway of India is now a port, from where you can catch ferries to Elephanta Island and Alibagh. There are some pay-and-use toilets not far from the entrance. There is no fee to enter the area but you will be subject to a routine security check.

SP Mukherjee Chowk is a beautiful square which forms the borderline between Fort (north) and Colaba (south). On it are the Regal Cinema and the Prince of Wales Museum (now known as the Chhatrapati Sivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya).

SP Mukherjee Chowk

  Starting from this junction going south is the Colaba Causeway- a    touristy road with many shops, restaurants and the BEST Bhavan. The  famous Cafe Leopold is on this road as well, fairly  close from  SP     Mukherjee Chowk, on the left side when coming south. On the road is a                                            lot of street touristy shopping as well.



Further south in Colaba is the Afghan Church. It wasn't open when we visited (a Friday) but the caretaker opened it for us.

Afghan Church

Interior of Afghan Church

In the western part of Colaba is Cuffe Parade. The shopping arcade is not of
much interest but the area around is relatively quaint and worth a walk.

CHURCHGATE, FORT, KALA GHODA

This part of town is choc-a-block with colonial architecture and lots of street activity. Chhatrapati Sivaji Terminus (CST) is located here and is always busy when the trains are operational. It is a lovely building though, as is the one opposite it which is the BMC (Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation). 

CST

BMC

CST is located on Nagar Chowk. The main road- Dr 

Dadabhai Naoroji Rd- is

littered with colonial architecture-

and is worth a stroll in the evening. 

Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd

Veer Nariman Road is also a pleasure to walk through. Beginning

at Marine Dr, it passes through the iconic Pizza by the Bay restaurant

and the Ambassador Hotel, then passes Churchgate station and Oval 

Maidan. Finally it crosses Flora Fountain, St Thomas Cathedral

and ends at Horniman Circle.

If you turn right from Veer Nariman Rd on to Karmaveer Bhaurao

Patil Marg (basically, the east boundary of Oval Maidan, one block west of Flora Fountain), you can check out some more great colonial architecture including the High Court, the Rajabai Clock Tower and the Old Secretariat- on the junction of  

Karmaveer Bhaurao Patil Marg and Madame Cama Rd.

High Court (left), behind Rajabai Clock Tower
is the BSE (Bombay Stock Exchange)

Oval Maidan itself it a nice place to stroll and offers good views of the landmarks on the road. It is a popular ground for playing cricket and football.

If you continue east on Madame Cama road, you then hit SP

Mukherjee Chowk. Left (north) is Kala Ghoda while right (south) is Colaba.

If you turn left on MG Rd (Mahatma Gandhi Road),

 you can see the Prince of Wales Museum followed by the Jehangir Art Galllery on the right.

Flora Fountain

The Prince of Wales Museum is an interesting museum with varied exhibits in a nice setting. In my opinion, it is one of the better maintained museums in India so it is worth visiting.

Upon entering, you will be greeted by the La Source Fountain,
which based on its namesake painting, by French artist Jean
August Dominique Ingres, now located in the Musee d'Orsay, Paris.

MG Rd is also known as Fashion Street- lots of clothes on sale on the pavement.

Continue straight, you hit Veer Nariman Road again and the Flora Fountain. Turn right on Veer Nariman Rd and continue straight till you reach St Thomas Cathedral.

St Thomas Cathedral

Inside St Thomas Cathedral

On Dalal St, a few streets south of Veer Nariman Rd and east of MG Rd, is the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE). Around Dalal St are a few stalls for the famous street food vada pav.

MARINE DR

Marine Dr

Marine Drive, now called Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Marg, is Mumbai's premier seaside boulevard. It starts from around Malabar Hill in the west and then ends at Nariman Point in the east. With a broad and well-kept pavement, it is a popular place for jogging. The curve of the road is known as the Queen's Necklace because of illumination at night (all streetlights work!).

Queen's Necklace

The Girgaum area's beach on Marine Dr is known as Girgaum Chowpatty (chowpatty is Marathi for beach). It's a popular place in the evening to get some good street food and the views are fine too.

Girgaum Chowpatty; behind is
Worli skyline

On Sardar Vallabhai Patel
Road (Sandhurst Rd) is the
Opera House.

CRAWFORD MARKET
Not far from CST is the Crawford Market, a great place to feel the chaos around. Be careful with your pockets, this is a prime spot for pickpocketing!

Crawford Market

MALABAR HILL
If you're in the mood for some greenery, go to the Hanging Gardens
in the posh district of Malabar Hill. They are indeed quite beautiful
and provide good views of Mumbai (if it isn't too smoggy). Opposite the Hanging Gardens is the Kamala Nehru Park. This park has a
giant shoe and the viewpoint offers nice views over Marine Dr.

Hanging Gardens

View over Marine Dr from Kamala Nehru Park

CENTRAL MUMBAI

BYCULLA

Byculla has the imposing Gloria Church. Besides, you can visit the famous Chor Bazaar. With a completely different atmosphere from any other market in South Mumbai, Chor Bazaar is a great place to shop for antiques such as old telephones, clocks and even coin replicas. Even if you don't want to shop, Chor Bazaar's lanes are a nice place to stroll through and take in the unique atmosphere.

The lanes of Chor Bazaar...

THE SUBURBS

After some days in South Mumbai, some areas in the suburbs may feel slightly disappointing. And don't be fooled by the word "suburbs"- these are just expansions of the city. Yes, some areas do contain bungalows but much of the area is packed residential and commercial areas with not much character. Despite this, there are some areas which warrant exploration.

BANDRA

Parts of this western suburb, posh in many parts, feel like a hill station due to the elevation and the overall character. Although the Carter Rd promenade may feel underwhelming after Marine Dr, it still is a good place to get your sea fix while in the north.

Carter Rd promenade

A bit uphill, east, is the shopping street of Linking Rd. Now known as Vithalbhai Patel Rd (VP Rd), this road has some shopping, including stalls selling clothes and shoes.

South of Carter Rd is St Andrews Church.

St Andrews Church

Inside St Andrews Church

South of St Andrews church is Bandstand, a posh area of apartments and bungalows (including houses of celebrities), with a hill station feel. Nearby is Mount Mary's Basilica and the shrine opposite it provides good views of the basilica.

Mount Mary's Basilica

ELEPHANTA ISLAND
Elephanta Island is located around 10 km from the Gateway of India. To get there, get to the ticket counters at Gateway of India and buy tickets for Elephanta Island (INR 150 per person return). You can buy the tickets just before departure, ferries run every 30 min from 9 am to 2 pm. To get on the upper deck you need to pay INR 10 to the person on the ferry. Once on Elephanta Island, the first ferry leaves at 12 pm- ferries arriving from Mumbai before leave empty (it is, however, possible to request a ferry to take you back). Ferries take around 50 min one way.

Once on the island, you can take a short train ride (INR 10 per person return) or walk (it's less than 1 km) to an area with shops. There are steps- after getting off the train- and around 5-7 min later you're at the entrance of the caves.

The caves are indeed beautiful- and are carved out of rock. The scenery around is good too.

Accommodation
We stayed in 2 hotels:
Hotel Ambassador
Rooms- 7/10 The rooms are generally good but, as the hotel is old, the rooms may have some problems. Ours had problems with the shower. Otherwise they're relatively spacious considering the prime location.
Staff- 8/10 Staff is fine, no special comment here.
Location- 10/10 Amazing location, on Veer Nariman Rd, meters from Marine Dr.
Breakfast- 7/10 The breakfast is fine.
Total- 32/40 Recommended. While the hotel looks pretty characterless from the outside and the revolving restaurant isn't operational, rooms are fine and location is unbeatable.

Courtyard by Marriott Mumbai International Airport
Rooms- 8/10 Rooms are very good with the usual mod-cons.
Staff- 8/10 Staff is fine, no special comment here.
Location- 7/10 Nothing much is walkable but handy for the airport.
Breakfast- 8/10 Breakfast is pretty good with a good variety.
Total- 31/40 Very nice hotel with a pretty big gym. Recommended, but for the average tourist, commutes to attractions will be long. (around 45 min to Bandra, Malad, 1 hr to South Mumbai)

Food
COLABA
Busaba- Expect slow service but the result is good Pan-Asian food. Off Colaba Causeway, on Mandlik Rd.

Cafe Leopold- Located on Colaba Causeway, not very far south from SP Mukherjee Chowk. Amazing desserts.

Indigo- Pricey but good food. The dish "vegetables cooked different ways" is well-made. Next to Busaba.

Kailash Parbat- An iconic restaurant on Colaba Causeway/1st Pasta Lane dishing Sindhi and North Indian cuisine.

Starbuck's- Newly arrived in India, expect lots of crowds. The food is also decent. Entrance is from behind the Taj Mahal Palace.

There is also a Barista outlet (Cecil Court, Colaba Causeway); strategically located if you're tired of walking around in the heat.

FORT
Starbuck's- The biggest Starbuck's outlet in Mumbai, this is located on Horniman Circle. Food is similar to the one in Colaba with some more variety.

MARINE DR
Pizza by the Bay- Famous restaurant on the junction of Marine Dr and Veer Nariman Road. Get a window table and see the world passing by while enjoying pizzas with Indian twists. Their tomato sauce is amazing. However, expect relatively slow service; it's quite a laid-back place.

GIRGAUM
Soam's Veg- Good Gujarati cuisine available here.

CRAWFORD MARKET
Badshah- An iconic eatery dishing up good Indian desserts etc. Get a window table to witness the outside chaos.

LOWER PAREL
Moshe's- In High Street Phoenix/Palladium. Good Med food.

BANDRA
Bonobo- Located above KFC on Linking Rd/33rd Rd. Good crostini, humus and other Med food.

You can have a look at the food courts in the various malls for greater variety.

Shopping
See the Sights section for Crawford Market, Chor Bazaar and Fashion St.

MALLS
High Street Phoenix/Palladium- A typical, modern mall in Lower Parel. Lots of food options and typical shops.

Inorbit Mall- Located in Malad. Has all the usual brands.

Infiniti Mall- Has two branches, one in Andheri and one in Malad.

Transport
Taxis operate throughout the city and can be hailed. Autos (3-wheelers) only operate in the suburbs. City cabs are cheap by Western standards and drivers are generally eager for a conversation. There are also radio taxis and other companies.
Meru
Ola Cabs
Easycabs
Carzonrent
Carrentalmumbai.net
Radio cabs will use their meters. With normal city cabs you may need to agree on a fare if the driver doesn't use the meter.

There is a hellishly crowded (on weekdays at least) suburban train. If you plan on using it, take advice of your hotel or a local friend. As a first-timer, avoid using it in rush hours, from 8-11 am and from 5-8 pm. Stand clear of the doors (they don't close) as people near the doors can get pushed out.

Safety
When it comes to violent crime, Mumbai is generally safe. Be in well-peopled areas. Many areas, eg Marine Dr, are well frequented even late at night. Petty crime can be a problem in crowded areas. Exercise usual precautions and don't leave belongings unattended. If you're riding the commuter rail, be very cautious of pick-pockets.

Itineraries
One Day
With just one day in Mumbai, stay in South Mumbai and visit Colaba in the morning. After lunch around, in the evening, get to CST to get a feeling of the evening rush and walk around for a while- Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd and MG Rd for instance, and end your stay with a stroll down Marine Dr at night.

Two Days
On your Day 1 morning, walk around Colaba, visiting Colaba Causeway, Afghan Church and Cuffe Parade. In the early evening, visit Crawford Market for some kulfi at Badshah and then stroll then Marine Dr later, visiting Girgaum Chowpatty for some views and street food.
On the second day, spend your morning around Churchgate and Fort, taking in the colonial architecture. Visit the Prince of Wales Museum during the afternoon and spend the evening around CST- feeling the chaos.

Three Days
Spend the first two days as above. On the third day, go to Elephanta Island in the morning. Spend your evening in Bandra.

Four Days
If you have another day, spend the morning in Malabar Hill and later get to Byculla for some antique-shopping in Chor Bazaar.

No of visits- 3
Last visit- Jul 2014
First visit- Feb 2009